By Air

Cambodia isn't an easy country to get into, especially if you're coming from outside South East Asia. Truth to tell, the only way to get into Cambodia is through a few neighbouring countries like Thailand, Malaysia, Laos and Vietnam. There are direct flights on the national carrier, Cambodia International Airlines from Bangkok and Ho Chih Minh City to Phnom Penh that is served by Pochentong International Airport, but these aren't particularly reliable. A few other airlines also have flights to Phnom Penh.

By Road

By land, you can enter Cambodia through Moc Bai on the Vietnam border. Regular buses from Ho Chih Minh do the trip in around 6 hours, or you can hire a car in Vietnam to get to Cambodia. The distance from Bangkok via the border towns of Poipet and Aranyaprathet is around 400km but the roads are not always in a good condition, making driving hazardous and fraught with mishaps waiting to happen.

By Sea

Phnom Penh can be reached aboard one of the passenger ferries plying between Chau Doc (in Vietnam) and the Cambodian capital.

Getting Around

Making your way around Cambodia isn't particularly easy- or comfortable. There are internal flights between major cities like Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Battambang, Kompong Som, Koh Kong and Stung Treng. So far as train travel goes, the railways, which have been badly damaged during the civil war have still not recovered and anyway, are not allowed to carry foreigners. Roads, too, are not in good a condition, in parts they are downright bad, so the only viable option for long-distance travel are the extensive waterways of the country. There are around 1900 km of rivers and canals in Cambodia. The capital Phnom Penh can also be reached by sea-going vessels.

Within cities, motorbikes and cycles can be hired, and you'll find a fairly decent bus network serving the capital's suburbs. Cyclos are used in some cities and provide a good and cheap form of transport. On the whole, you should be prepared to rough it out a bit. If you're keen on hiring a car, you should contact the Directorate General of Tourism- they'll arrange for a government car (with a chauffeur) for you.

Tourist Offices

Cambodia's Department of Tourism has its main office in Phnom Penh, at No.3, Monivong Boulevard (Tel: 855-23-426-107). They are usually able to provide fairly accurate information regarding accommodation, tourist sights, travel, etc. In fact, they're a good office to contact to find out whether it's safe to venture out of Phnom Penh or not.

When to Go

Cambodia has pretty unbearable summers- hot, humid and most unappealing. What's worse is that it rains even during the rest of the year- the north east monsoons drench most of the country around November. The best time to visit Cambodia, therefore, is in December and January, when the temperature's fairly comfortable, and it isn't pouring cats and dogs. The main rainy season, between April and October, is very wet, but can be a good time if you're keen on seeing Angkor Wat in all its glory- that's the time when all the moats are full and the vegetation is at its greenest.

Where do I Stay?

Cambodia doesn't have an impressive range of hotels or other tourist accommodation. Phnom Penh does have a number of hotels, including some very good properties (upmarket, mid-range as well as budget), but outside the capital, you may not find much choice when it comes to where to stay. If you're heading out of Phnom Penh, you might need to explore the chances of staying at a household (for a modest sum, of course) or bedding down in a local inn for the night- don't expect luxuries, at any rate. For help on accommodation facilities in Phnom Penh and other parts of Cambodia, you could contact the tourism office in Phnom Penh.

What to bring

Everything- or almost everything you may need. Cambodia isn't the most developed and westernised of countries, and you may not find much of what you need outside Phnom Penh. The capital has shops and markets where you can usually find medicines, toiletries and the like, but definitely not the expensive or rare brands, but in towns and villages outside Phnom Penh you might have trouble finding most things. So if you're likely to run out of anything, it's best to bring along replenishments.

As far as clothing is concerned, carry light, airy clothes- Cambodia's hot and muggy, and cotton is best. Do bring along insect repellent and sun tan lotion- two things you'll end up using a lot of. Cambodia is giving Thailand a run for the dubious honour as the sex capital of South East Asia and AIDS is rampant. So please carry along an adequate supply of condoms or stay off sex.