South East Asian Trips

The Nam Sam at about 1200m above sea level, Sam Neua remains one of the country’s least visited provincial capitals. Swimming in the milieu of history, eye-widening produce markets (and less appealing Chinese goods) and ethnic diversity, it possesses the tang ardently sought by inquisitive travellers. The town and its surrounds shift through great contrasts of climate and colour. From April to October the landscape is lush and warm from the rains. As the cooler dry sets in, flowers speckle the streets until the wet begin again in December. Sam Neua makes an excellent base to explore the rest of the province, which is slowly but surely opening up. Residents are mostly Lao, Vietnamese and Hmong, along with some Thai Dam, Thai Daeng and Thai Lü.

Reaching this remote northeast town close to the Vietnamese border on a winding mountain road requires considerable effort, but it’s worth it for the superb views of the surrounding countryside. The fascinating town attracts many hill tribes to its vibrant morning market,

Weaving villages

Sam Neua is renowned for its beautiful weaving, with its gorgeous and original designs popular throughout Laos. Most upmarket textile shops in major tourist towns feature work made in Sam Neua rather than the local produce. Unfortunately, a wander around the Sam Neua market reveals little evidence of the local skill, as most pieces are sent to markets and shops in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

However, within the town of Sam Neua there are three small weaving villages. In these, workgroups consisting mainly of young women weave richly elaborate textiles, filled with mythical Buddhist and animist creatures and other meaningful symbols. While the product of their work is usually sent off to other towns, it is usually possible to see and purchase some samples,

Hintang Archaelogical Park

Sam Neua's answer to The Plain of Jars consists of a number of sites featuring clusters of standing stone pillars which rise out of the earth inexplicably. Not a natural feature of the local geology, little is known about why these totems have been placed there, or what their purpose is. Despite this, the stones have been dated to the same age as the Jars at Phonsavan, and may be a relic of the same civilisation. Like the Jars, speculation is generally that their function was funerary.

Signage at the site explains the site's history, and entrance is free. Although there are no amenities at the site, plans are underway to build a hut and employ park keepers.

The Tourism Office organises treks and tours that take in the Stone Park, either as a direct visit, or in conjunction with other local activities, such as a waterfall and an overnight stay in a local village. A couple of guesthouses also hire out a car and driver so you can do it independently. Alternatively, it is possible to take the public bus to Houamuang, then walk 3 Km further (or if transport is going past, get off at Suan Hin), where the road turns off, leading 5Km to the park.