South East Asian Trips

More and more visitors are discovering Phu Quoc's pristine beaches and laid-back lifestyle. Until the turn of the century, Phu Quoc (population about 60,000) was only for the adventurous. Battered ferries traversed treacherous seas from Rach Gia and Ha Tien and Vietnam Airlines flew in passengers and perishables four times a week. Today Phu Quoc is served by four flights a day and backpackers share the sandy white beaches with jet-setters.

Though technically part of the Mekong Delta, Phu Quoc resembles the mainland - both topographically and culturally - about as much as Hawaii resembles Iowa. Only 15 km (9 miles) from Cambodia, the Cambodians have also claimed sovereignty over the island. But there's little pack in the Khmer punch these days, and a large Vietnamese military base on the island helps keep the neighbors at bay. In fact, presently, the entire northern half of Phu Quoc is sealed off to foreigners, as it comprises a large military installation. Meanwhile, the southwest coast of this 48-km-long island features some of the finest coconut palm-lined beaches in Vietnam.

The two main "towns" on the island are Duong Dong, where the airport is located, and An Thoi, a smaller settlement where the ferries from Rach Gia land. About 20 km separate the two towns. The Duong Dong Market Make sure to pay a visit to the colorful local market at Duong Dong, a colorful, laid-back little seaport boasting delicious fresh seafood. Nearby Dinh Cau Rock sits at the mouth of the Duong Dong River and features a small Buddhist shrine which dates back to the 1930s. It offers good photo ops of the harbor.

Leisure activities are somewhat limited on Phu Quoc. Windsurfing, snorkeling and diving are available at some of the resorts. Deep sea fishing is a staple of the local economy and anglers can cast their rods on nighttime sojourns offered by the Saigon-Phu Quoc Resort. There's some talk of organizing treks on the island, and the Saigon-Phu Quoc resort offers some hiking along the southern beaches and coastal mountains. Unfortunately the most worthwhile interior areas of the island worth trekking are restricted, as they encompass the military base.

This seeming paradise may have been overlooked by the producers of "The Beach", but not by resort developers. Small bungalow resorts have sprouted up along the island's southwest coast in recent years. But the big players have been slow to arrive, perhaps because the Vietnamese government had pegged Phu Quoc as Southeast Asia's new "Singapore" with ambitious plans to turn the island into a deep-water port, complete with skyscrapers and freeways, factories and trendy shopping districts. That plan seems to have been lost at sea. For now newer and more upscale resorts continue to broaden Phu Quoc's appeal,

How to Reach

By Air

Vietnam Airlines offers daily flights between Saigon and Phu Quoc for about US$100 roundtrip. Flight time is about an hour aboard ATR-72 aircraft,

Boat

Ferries leave each morning just after sunrise from Rach Gia, a 90-km journey lasting approximately 12 hours. The cost for foreigners is 100,000 VND. Ferries leave from the wharf at the end of Nguyen Cong Tru Street and arrive at An Thoi on Phu Quoc. Honda om transportation can be arranged for the approximately 21-km (13 mile) journey to Duong Dong. Ferries are no longer available for foreigners from Ha Tien to Phu Quoc, as they arrive at the northern Phu Quoc island village of Bai Tam, which is part of a Vietnamese military installation. You'll be given a lot of excuses in Ha Tien why you can't make this journey, the most repeated being "for your personal security," as the ferry runs on the fringes of Cambodian territorial waters. Returning to the mainland from Phu Quoc, however, foreigners are permitted on daily ferries (which don't run during Tet) departing from Ham Ninh which arrive at Duong Hoa 5-6 hours later. The cost to foreigners is 70,000 VND. Although you'll be advised to arrive at Ham Ninh no later than 9 a.m., the boat won't leave until full (i.e. dangerously overloaded) which is usually about noon. Curiously, foreigners are not permitted on the ferry which runs back to Ham Ninh from Duong Hoa, weird,

Around Town

Most resorts provide airport transportation for guests with a reservation. Motorbike taxi drivers swarm around anyone else who doesn't have pre-arranged transportation. Motorbike taxi drivers are always waiting at the ferry landing in An Thoi to commute passengers up to the hotels in Duong Dong.

Most of the island's resorts rent motorbikes. Virtually anyone with a motorbike can be flagged down on the island for a ride. Trips around town (Duong Dong) should cost no more than US$1. Negotiate with the locals. If you need a Honda om driver/guide for the day, expect to pay 100,000 VND in addition to a tip which will be "up to you". An additional 50,000 VND will be highly appreciated.

About 20 km separate Duong Dong and An Thoi. Do not attempt to reach the northern hamlets of Bai Tam or Cua Can. A general rule of thumb is to stay south of Duong Dong save for the 7-km stretch of beach north of town to Bai Cua Can Beach. The Vietnamese military controls the northern half of the island and will detain any individual attempting to reach the northern sector from Duong Dong on the west coast of the island or from Ham Ninh on the eastern coast.